Extraordinary Heroism

April seems to be a dangerous month on snow-covered mountain slopes. However, Dave Nyman, 31, and Jim Sweeney, 33, wanted to climb the 2500 foot elevator shaft of Mt. Johnson in the Alaska Range anyway.

Experienced and well-equipped for the challenge, they set out in April of 1989.

Part way up Dave sensed an instability in the layers of snow and ice. Jim decided to go a bit farther to check it out. Suddenly an avalanche of snow and ice sent Jim hurtling past Dave, who was able to hold the ropes and stop Jim’s slide. But Jim’s helmet was cracked, blood flowed from head wounds and a leg was broken.

According to the November 1991 article in the Readers’ Digest, Dave worked with determination for over 5 hours to get him back to their tent site. Extremely exhausted, and with a delirious partner on his hands, he did what he could to prepare a hot meal in their tent.

The 7 miles between them and the Sheldon Mountain House were daunting. It was very dangerous for a lone skier to cross the many crevasses without a partner holding the ropes. He knew of no other option. Reaching the lodge he was glad to find 4 skiers there, two of them willing to try a rescue. Next morning a refreshed Dave followed them but met them returning without Jim. They said it was too dangerous to try rescue. Dave felt compelled to go it alone, and found Jim calling for help.

After a meal and dry clothes, hope rose, but were soon dashed by 75 mph winds and more avalanches. They lost the tent, all the food and all equipment except one sleeping bag and a few lesser items. Once the storm subsided Dave dragged Jim in the sleeping bag for 17 hours before spotting a search plane. The pilot dipped his wings to signal that they had been spotted.

Rescue came just in time.

Nick Parker, a mountain rescue expert, commented that it was the “bravest and most selfless action I’ve ever seen in a lifetime of climbing.” Dave Nyman was awarded the Carnegie Medal for Extraordinary Heroism.

It means a lot to have someone holding the ropes for you when you can’t help yourself.

Henry Wiebe